Indian Chief Travel Guides

Xi’an

Xi’an (Western Peace), population three million, has served as China’s capital many times and at its peak it was described as the most prosperous city on the planet. These days, although the city is polluted, hot as an oven in summer and cold as a freezer in winter, it manages to remain one of China’s most attractive and charismatic destinations, gracefully blending its historic architecture with newer developments. Although there’s plenty to see within the city and the surrounding region, the main reason visitors flock to Xi’an is to stare out over the unforgettable Terracotta Warriors which were discovered in 1974 in the district of Lintong, 20 miles outside of the city.

While the warriors deservedly attract the limelight, the city itself is certainly worth a visit in its own right and within its stunning early Ming dynasty walls you’ll find intact bell and drum towers, an ancient mosque and a fascinating Muslim quarter. Beyond the walls lies another host of sights, including impressive pagodas, one of the best museums in the country, the Shaanxi History Museum and, just a few miles to the east, Banpo is one of the best preserved examples of Yangshao Culture in China. Farther to the east, Huashan is one of China’s five holy mountains – feasible as a day trip. Xi’an is in Shaanxi province, which is famous as one of the regions where pandas still survive in the wild, and you can arrange trips to a panda reserve in the Qingling Mountains at Zhouzhi, two hours away. Culinary travelers will also find a feast awaits in Xi’an – the city is famous for its dumplings and there are plenty of opportunities to sample (and even make) them, while the Muslim quarter has outdoor treats aplenty.

Orientation

Xi’an’s ancient city walls encircle the old city which makes it easy to navigate. Many of the main sights are within the city walls and this central zone is bisected by four major roads. They run along the points of the compass to their respective gates in the wall and are named Bei, Dong, Nan and Xi Dajie (North, East, South and West Avenues). These roads meet just south of the center at the Bell Tower. To cross this busy intersection you need to use the subterranean tunnel, which has access points from each of the four roads. A little west of the Bell Tower, across a large public plaza, you’ll see the Drum Tower, marking the entrance to the atmospheric Muslim quarter. With its tangle of alleys, this is one of the only parts of the city you’re likely to get lost in, but it’s great fun. Sooner or later you’ll emerge somewhere you recognize, or where you can flag a cab.

Within the Muslim quarter, the Great Mosque is the main sight, and it’s easy to find – there are signs, but you can just follow the souvenir stalls. In the southeast of the old city there is an artist’s quarter, which is definitely worth a stroll. You’ll also find the Beilin Stone Tablet Museum here. Outside the city walls the sights are a little more spread out. Not too far south of the South Gate you’ll find the LittleWild Goose Pagoda and, farther south still, the Shaanxi History Museum and, to the east, the Big Wild Goose Pagoda. Although there are a few hotels out this way, you’re much better off staying within the city walls, which has options for most budgets. Likewise, the best eating and drinking are within the old city, particularly the lively Muslim markets and Defuxiang Bar Street.